Fashion Design A Collection 7 – Spring 2020 – Yarn Sourcing + Armor Sketching

Fashion Design A Collection 7 – Spring 2020 – Yarn Sourcing + Armor Sketching

November 8, 2019 0 By Bernardo Ryan


A quick update on what I’m working on
for my spring 2020 collection. I am currently looking at sourcing this yarn.
This really stretchy yarn here in the United States. This yarn was from
Shanghai and the other stretchy yarn that I used on my previous collections
is also from Shanghai and is not readily available here in the states. Which means
that the shipping charges would be really really high if I try to ship what
I’ve used before from the the yarn mill that I used before. It would be really
expensive to ship it here. So I am now looking for a new yarn supplier that’s
here in the United States that makes this kind of really really high stretch
lycra elastic yarn. I’m in contact with a few yarn mills and I’m hoping that I’ll
find out soon whether one of them can provide something really similar like
that. Hopefully that comes soon because I’d like to keep doing swatch
development. I kind of stopped swatch develoment at the moment because I
really like these swatches that I did before with the bamboo viscose and the
plating the elastic in it to create a drapey fabric and a structured fabric. I
like these a lot. I like this direction. I’m kind of
holding off and waiting to see if I can find a yarn that is from the states and
is easily readily available in really small quantities with stock service here
in the States. Today I would also like to start
sketching some more. I sketched a few looks that I showed you guys in previous
weeks and again I want to sketch inspired by these swatches. The bamboo
viscose and the elastic plaited in for structure and for drape. I was
thinking about being inspired by armor, like the metal armor. I like that concept
for the this structured fabric could look really nice. I think we could create
some really interesting shapes with the structure so I wanted to just sketch one
page of like five looks right now to play with that concept of that
structured knit fabric inspired by metal armor. I pulled up some inspiration
images of armor. I’m just gonna do some sketching now and we’re gonna see what
comes of it. I’m not really sure if anything interesting is gonna come of it
but that’s just how it is really. I feel like the joints have kind of these large
like shoulders have these really large almost
like football player coverings on them. The legs have these really cool things too.
I’m thinking more straight lines though because armor tends to be kind of rounded.
Sometimes rounded sometimes straight lines but let’s do like the
shoulders. If we did something kind of structured. Came off the shoulder. I don’t
even really know how to draw this kind of structure when you have these
interesting shapes. So let’s see what we can do. And yes I do use a croquis
sometimes. It’s just easier. I’m not a great strong sketcher like free
sketcher. It’s something I do want to work on. It’s just not my strong point
when I really just want to focus on styles and shapes and getting concepts
down I prefer to just use a croquis so that the shape and the proportions of
each look that I sketch stays really really consistent and I can really just
focus on the details of what I’m sketching and not think too much about:
Are my shapes correct? Are my proportions correct on the body? It’s
really hard. So I’m thinking these kinds of light these really light lines would
be short rowing. So it’s hard to kind of show that it’s maybe like this all show
like the details of the decreasing and increasing knit stitches that you kind
of see when you do short rowing. This is really rough. This is kind of a normal
dart short rowing here but that could look nice and a little bit of like a wider
shape that goes out from the hips. So fa, fa, and do more like straight
lines. It’s kind of interesting. All right it’s kind of looking like armor esque
with the straighter lines and the structure involved. Let’s see if we can do
shorts. I feel like these sometimes have these knee things. Structure around the
knee kind of like kinda like waist darts, but at the knee. That could be
interesting. So this would be very straight straight straight. Let’s make
these pants. Let’s make these kind of like structured structured pants.
Okay that’s kind of interesting. I like these shoulders. I think I’m gonna
actually take. I’m keeping the necklines very consistent just because I’m not
really interested in playing with neck lines in this collection. I’m just doing
a normal sort of crew neck maybe slightly lower but extended crew neck
that’s about it. Let’s play with slightly higher elevated shoulders.
Almost looking like shoulder pads and same things so we maybe have short
rowing going across the shoulder line. Maybe still structured sleeves with
structured sleeves that kind of go down and instead of doing this direction we
could maybe do princess. Like this. Like princess seams that create
structure and shape. I’m doing my short rowing stitches in the wrong direction.
Right so this goes out so these are out, up, and then these are gonna be this
way. So these are kind of like the short rowing I’m hoping will kind of create these
folded they’re kind of like folded lines that will appear in the fabric and will
shape the fabric to face different directions. Off a little bit off the
shoulder. Even here it could be interesting to add some short rowing
here. Is it short rowing, or is it more just like? The sleeves it might not be short
rowing because you’re not doing a lot of shaping. It’s more bending a bending of
the fabric so we’ll see what that might be. I’m not sure. That might be one row of
reverse jersey to get that bend. We’ll see how that turns out. Let’s do a crop
top here instead. Everybody knows I love crop tops and if you don’t know, you know.
Crop tops are great for me. I’m really short so crop tops just work better
for me. Same thing here. We can do some interesting short rowing on the side
seam. Short rowing at the normal, at the normal dart placement here. I’m
really liking the concept of the armor that kind of goes with this concept that
armor is a second skin. So I’m really liking that concept. So I think it’s
really cool to have all these shapes happening in a garment like this where
you have the maybe going out is going back in towards the waist and if you can
have them kind of thinking of the center because you have that valley between
your boobs, but that could also be a really cool shape to somehow structure
this so this would be inward if these are going in out this way. This is going
to go in whereas here probably outward here kind of the opposite of the darts
to create the structure basically mounds where your boobs are. Just really
following the shape of the body and it sits on top of the body. It’s
not skin-tight not bodycon but it’s this really nice shape and again we do this
kind of like. Well here I don’t feel like we need. I feel like we don’t need it
here. You’re just there straight across to that one and then up. I don’t know if
I can get this sharp of shapes. Probably not in knit, but it would be kind of
cool. And then for the bottom maybe we could do like a flare skirt but a
skirt that again has these. One, maybe one two three and these could definitely
have shaping short rowing because we’re going from a flare. And then if we could
get the bottom hem to be really really straight. Sort of straight lines could be
interesting. I like that. Oh I didn’t do sleeves. I
always like sleeves. I’m not a big fan of sleeveless. Maybe I should I mean maybe
okay. I’m gonna be open to, I’m going to leave that one
sleeveless just to keep it in mind because this is a spring collection. Even
though I don’t like sleeveless doesn’t mean that everybody doesn’t like
sleeveless and in the summer it can be a lot more comfortable to wear. Okay last
one for today. Let’s make it a good one. I really like this middle one as far as
like all the shaping that’s happening. That’s really nice. Even here this will
probably be shaping as well like on the side seams. I love like all the
contouring that’s happening so maybe we do one again that’s kind of like that.
Let’s do like let’s do like extreme contouring in the garment. I really like
that. Well let’s do sleeves this times. Again, sleeves that have also that
kind of folded in them. Okay so I finished sketching my armor inspired looks. Here
they are. I think they look pretty good. They’re probably hard to see. I’ll put a
picture up because the lighting doesn’t work with this. I like the concept of
being inspired by armor. I like that I’m using these the structured fabric could
be really nice if I could create contours and manipulations within it to
shape the garments around the body in a flattering way. Obviously stretchy fabric
can be really nice for like body con garments like dresses and skirts. But I
know from previous experience some of my past collections had body con skirts and
dresses in them and they didn’t always go over super well. Some people loved
them and they were pretty popular but I think a lot of women. There’s a, I feel
like a small range in age of the women that wear bodycon dresses like out
during the day. So doing something that’s more
sort of bodycon but it more sits on the surface of your body and kind of skims
over your body rather than being glued to your body; I feel like that’s gonna go
over better with a bigger group of women than straight up body con glued to you.
So this armor idea I really really like because you can still get a really
flattering shape but it can be really comfortable because it’s off of your
skin. It’s not completely stuck to you. Especially in summer you don’t really
want clothes that are glued to you so you can sweat right through them. So
having something that breathes and where there’s a little bit of air can get
between your skin and your clothing I think that feels really nice. Especially
like the wider sleeves you can get some air flow in there. Wider like a crop top
wider bottom. Get some air flow in there which is nice when
it’s hot. But you can still have this gorgeous structured expensive looking
luxury garment on without feeling hot and without feeling uncomfortable. So I
like that. I also tried to add pockets to some of the garments because I know how
important pockets are to women and for me it definitely takes me over the edge
if I’m on the fence of buying something I really like and it’s not very
functional it doesn’t have pockets. If I find pockets in it, that can
definitely take me to the point of being on the fence to being like yeah I got to get
this because not only is this a beautiful garment it’s actually
functional and I can put my hands in there and I can look cool walking down
the street but I can also keep all my crap in my pockets as well. And if
they’re the size like men’s size pockets like serious sites pockets even better.
That’s amazing. I love that. You can keep lots of goodies in your pockets. Thanks
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a full collection,. mini collection, capsule collection, a collection
nonetheless. Thanks for watching 🙂