Dress Designing – Where did the dart go? – Sure-Fit Designs™

Dress Designing – Where did the dart go? – Sure-Fit Designs™

October 9, 2019 2 By Bernardo Ryan


Where did that dart go? Hi everyone, I’m Glenda with Sure-Fit Designs. I know some of you know me as Glenda the Good Stitch. Well, what dart am I talking about? It’s the dart that’s in the bodice front of the Sure-Fit Designs master patterns. Now in this video, the whole purpose of it, is to analyze the design of a fashion and help you along your way to recognizing design details. And one of the very basic and foundation questions to ask is, does it have a dart and if so, what does that dart look like, where did it go to and is it taking on some kind of other form? So we’ve got some garments here to analyze and take a look at. Now for those of you not familiar with Sure-Fit Designs, there are all kinds of videos in both the YouTube channel surefitdesigns as well as in the www.SFDLearningCenter.com that take you through the process and show you the information about how to get a body blueprint or your sloper to fit you, in other words how to draw off your pattern. So I’m not going to focus on that today. Today we’re going to assume that you already have your basic pattern drawn and now you’d like to move a little bit further forward and say what can I design with it? Well, you know, there’s three places for you to get designing ideas and to look at fashion. Number one is ready-to-wear. Number two is your pattern catalogs and number three are fashion magazines. So let’s pretend that we saw these garments in one of those areas and now you’re going to analyze them. Okay. Where did the dart go? We’re going to take a look at this little blue dress. Well that that side fitting bust dart is no longer in the side seam. Where did it go? As we notice the stitching line coming out of the neckline that’s a pretty good key that the dart got moved up into the neckline. Now the darts that are in the center of the dress, those darts come from this waist fitting dart in the bodice and this hip fitting dart in the skirt. When the skirt is sewn together with the bodice those darts will line up one underneath the other. The only difference that I did when I sewed this dress is that I didn’t sew the darts full width – I sewed them half width. Meaning that I ended up with a little bit more ease around in the waistline area. Just simply a design consideration because I wanted the dress to flow smoothly in my waistline area. The neckline has a dropped jewel neckline. This is the regular neckline on the bodice pattern here. I’ve just dropped it for a little bit more ease. The armhole, of course, this is a sleeveless garment. So as we take a look at the bodice front pattern you’re going to see that there’s a series of dots at the underarm that says ‘For Sleeveless garments use these Upper Dots’ and that’s exactly what I did. And what happens when you use that series of upper dots, it actually moves that underarm up closer to your body and in closer to your your torso so that you have less gaping in that sleeveless armhole. Let’s go on and take a look at this floral dress here. This dress has a v-neck. Well, yes, it has a v-neck, but that v-neck is created by wrapping in the front. Now again, let’s ask the question. Where did the dart go? Well that side fitting bust dart actually went down into this design line right here. Many of you will recognize this design line when it’s high-waisted like this, is called an empire line. It comes right underneath the bustline. So the dart got moved from the side seam down into that portion of the empire line where the bodice was cut off for that empire style. And what else do I want to tell you about this? It’s got a fairly snug cumberbund on the dress. And for the sleeve pattern, I’ve done a little flounce and flared sleeve. And if we think about the sleeve pattern from your Dress Kit master pattern, what we’re going to do is take and make a short sleeve and then at the hemline cut up to the cap and then leave the cap intact. The cap becomes pivotal points and then you spread the bottom out to create this pretty little flounce that’s on the bottom of that sleeve. There is also a full skirt that’s on the bottom of this particular dress. And how you design this style, is to take the skirt pattern and cut from the hemline up to the waist line but not through the waistline. The waist becomes a pivotal point and the skirt gets spread open in order to make the fullness that’s at the bottom of the skirt. This particular design is featured in a designing book called Bodices That Mix n Multiply and I often abbreviate that as Beyond Bodice Basics. Let’s take a look at this Navy dress. On this navy dress, again, I’ll ask the question. What happened to the dart? Where did it go? Well, as I analyzed this it’s no longer at the side seam. Where it actually went was down into the waist fitting dart of the bodice. And when this dart got opened up into the waist fitting dart then I created a lot of space at the waistline. And so that’s what creates the gathers that are at the waistline here. You’ll also notice some blousing on the top of this and that was done by adding approximately an inch and a half of additional ease at the waistline of your pattern. Then, it’s got a basically a high round jewel neckline. I might have lowered it a little bit but not very much. And the sleeve actually features ruching going down the center of the sleeve. And when we take a look at the skirt, you’ll see an asymmetrical yoke and attached to that is again, a gently flared skirt at the bottom. All the design features for this particular dress are found in a 4-page Fashion Design Sheet which is going to give you lots and lots of different little techniques for doing all kinds of different designs. Now what about the blouse that I’m currently wearing? Well, this blouse… Where did the dart go? We’ll ask that question again. From the side seam it actually went up into the shoulder line. Instead of stitching it all the way down in a finished dart, I stitched halfway down and called it a release pleat. For the neckline I’ve put on a pretty little ‘S-style’ of neckline. And the process for designing this S-style of neckline is actually found in the Dress Kit instruction book which comes in the Dress Kit. And of course I’ve buttoned it up the front, meaning that it needs a button extension as well as a facing. And I’ve added a 3/4 long sleeve with a little bit of blousing a small narrow cuff at the bottom to hold it up in three-quarter position. And for the finishing off of the blouse I’ve put on a pretty little peplum. Again, that’s found in that 4-page Fashion Design Sheet. So what are some of the resources that we can use to help you analyze designs, recognize fashions and how you can actually sew them from your Sure-Fit Designs body blueprint? Well, the first thing that’s most important is the 56-page instruction book that comes with the Sure-Fit Designs Dress Kit. I said in another video that it’s going to be your best friend and I really do mean that. We also have the designing book called Bodices That Mix and Multiply. We have the 4-page Fashion Design Sheet, which I’ve already referenced. We also have a Quick Reference Guide that shows you all kinds of line illustrations and gives you a page reference to where you’re going to find that within the Sure-Fit Designs resources. And in addition to that, we have a great DVD and it’s called ‘Darts: Versatile and Amazing.’ What this DVD does is gives you four different and very unique dart positions that give you – how about a little bit of excitement going into your fashion designs and creating some really different things with the darts. You really are going to be amazed at how versatile that dart can be when you work with a body blueprint or your sloper that you’ve designed from your Sure-Fit Designs pattern. It’s just everything that you design with it is also going to fit. Now, to help you remember all of these different designing things that you’re seeing in ready-to-wear or fashion magazines, I am going to recommend that you download our free little Sally Silhouette. What is Sally Silhouette? Well, she’s a body form. It’s a croquis. And when you download Sally you can tuck her in your purse and she gives you a basic body form that you can then sketch your design details on. And always remember when you’re looking at the fashion, ask yourself that question – where do I think that dart went? Because that can often be the foundation for the creation of your next sewing project. I’d like to invite all of you to join the Sure-Fit Designs community. And you can do that by going to www.surefitdesigns.com and Signing up for the newsletter. We also have an international Facebook page. And if you have a Facebook presense would like to join, just go to www.facebook.com/groups/surefitdesigns. And also don’t forget to like and subscribe to my Youtube channel. Thanks so much for watching.