Custom Sweater 1 – Development – Fashion Design

Custom Sweater 1 – Development – Fashion Design

February 23, 2020 3 By Bernardo Ryan


I started making a custom sweater for a
client. I did some initial swatches to test fabrics. My customer wanted a solid
black sweater with a design in it so I started with two different black yarns
in a birdseye jacquard. Unfortunately they don’t look different enough so the
pattern doesn’t really show very well. Then I tried some contrasting with the
black and white and some maroon and some melange maroon like this. And then I also
did a jersey swatch just to test some other melange sort of effects. Ultimately
we came to decide on the melange black and maroon and I made a swatch from this
grid pattern here. It’s a pattern of Manhattan or cropped. This is actually here
Central Park. This is the Hudson River East River and Roosevelt Island is here.
This is just a cropped section of the whole pattern and I quickly made the
diagram with square pixels which represent one knit stitch so I knew that
the swatch would come out distorted as it did. This is the full swatch shown on
the diagram and the stitches are flatter than they are wide so the pattern is
sort of smushed down. I’m gonna redo the diagram to have the pixels the same size
as the knit stitches so that the pattern looks correct. This was just to get a
sense of what the pattern roughly would look like and to see the effects. I’m
going to move forward with putting in the correct pixel size and refining the
pattern a little bit more. The bottom hem it came out a little bit funny. I need to
redo the bottom hem to find something that looks and feels a little bit better.
This was one end of the really high elastic yarn and one end of this sort of
like twisted boucle black yarn and I found this swatch that looks a lot
cleaner and if the client is okay with it I’m gonna just have the purple yarn
in the beginning. No plating just by itself like this pink yarn is the same
thing. So make sure that the hem doesn’t bag out and it really just keeps the hem
in good shape. So I’m gonna repractice that like this swatch. I had a
little bit of trouble with the mixed yarn that here this section the mixed
maroon and black feeding through the feeder on the machine. I fed them through
the same feeder which didn’t work well because the maroon yarn is a little bit
stretchy and the black yarn has absolutely no stretch at all so they
weren’t working well together in the same feeder and the marooned fiber was
skipping stitches and it was very time-consuming
after each row going back in and having to reknit some stitches because they
only knit one or two of the ends instead of all three of the ends of yarn. And I’d
like to buy a new yarn feeder so I can use more than two yarns. I often use more
than two yarns anyway so I think it would come in handy for future projects
as well as this project. I’ll update you guys on the progress of this sweater in
more videos to come. The cool thing about doing custom projects is that they are
one-offs and the finished product feels really special. It is literally
one-of-a-kind. Because the garments are one-offs, I’m more willing to try to
elaborate on designs because I know I don’t have to reproduce them so I can
make more labor-intensive designs for individual clients. It’s a great
collaborative experience with the client where we get to make something together
and oftentimes because clients don’t usually know much about the technical
side of knitting their creativity pushes me to create things I might not have
thought to try on my own. It gives me the chance to try yarns that I have but
couldn’t possibly get enough of if I were to reproduce a whole collection. So
I can use recycled yarns where I have one cone and that’s it but that’s enough
for one sweater. So I have a few more yarn options than if I were designing a
whole collection. Let me know below if you could design your own sweater what
would you do? An ugly Christmas sweater? Maybe sort of like a luxury fancy
sweater? Thanks for watching. Share with your knitting friends and share with
your non-knitting friends and subscribe πŸ™‚